Deep in New Delhi
The Shadow of the Cobra
For Tommy
It was a hot and sultry day in New Delhi. The Indian Spectacled Cobra raised its body from the worn basket, weaving in response to the vibrations of a familiar melody.
The music was a regular feature at the Chandni Chowk market. Business was brisk; crowds bustled past the dancing cobra and its master, Avijit.* Children eyed the reptile from a cautious distance, behind the stalls, some seated on the bare cobbled streets. There were inquisitive tourists, who stopped to snap a photograph of this unique spectacle, before being jostled by the throngs of early birds who came to bargain with the traders. Daily commerce was critical to this corner of Delhi.
Avijit occupied the same small space. The charmer revered the cobra, as a Hindu, their symbiotic relationship born of necessity. The cobra was protected and fed while Avijit could earn a modest income by performing for the public every day. Sometimes, the traders would spare a snack of na’an (bread), or lassi (cool sweetened milk). The cobra was revered and so the charmer shared in the reverence and silent fear of Hindu, Buddhist, and tourist alike.
The music took Avijit back to a place in the past, a place he had not seen for many years. In his mind, he would return to the village many miles away where his life began. Avijit was born into the Sapera caste, his forefathers all accomplished snake charmers. The first encounter with the cobra was very early. His tired father had left Naja* in a basket on the floor and Avijit had crawled from his mother’s side to see what was in the basket. He was much too close now and his mother was focused on the food she was preparing for their evening meal. There was no sound except a whisper, the whisper of Naja, the cobra, coiled in the tattered basket by the door.
Avijit’s eyes grew round and big, the serpent regarded the child, but perceived no threat and Avijit edged away instinctively. There was an innate understanding between child and snake and so they survived the first of many encounters during the course of 8 years, until Avijit had to leave his home in search of money. It was simple, there were too many mouths to feed and as Avijit’s appetite grew and more children arrived over the years, the immediate solution was to leave, so Avijit went out to find his way in the world.
His father presented him with a pungi* and a basket. He told the young boy to find a snake in the forest and train it, but not until he had chosen a place to practice his trade. His father was saddened to see his eldest son leave, but he knew that his chances were fair elsewhere in India. Their village was Sapera;* every other dwelling housed a cobra and keeper, no place for a young snake charmer to start his career. Avijit accepted his lot and walked north until darkness fell heavily upon his slim frame and his 8-year old feet grew sore. This first night Avijit prayed especially hard. He prayed for his uncertain future, for the strength and dignity to survive another day on God’s green earth among the sacred creatures of land and sea. He prayed for his father, his mother and his sisters who chattered incessantly.
Avijit wondered if his father had come home empty-handed again or if he managed to scrape together a few coins for na’an or rice or if he had charmed a meal to sneak home to his family. Avijit painted a picture in his prayer, a picture of plenty, with full bellies, light and color. Now, his prayer came alive and wrapped its warmth around his cold, frail frame. On this night, Avijit slept with the Gods. The next morning he awoke to emptiness, but a profound knowledge that he was not alone. He roused himself, guided by the dreams and aspirations of his people. There was no food now, no sweet milk, only the loud chatter of monkeys and birds.
Avijit walked his way across India as his forefathers had done over the centuries. Soon his legs grew tired and he stopped by the roadside to rest and fell into a deep, dark, dangerous slumber – so deep, the very life was going out of him. Hunger, fatigue and various maladies had taken their toll. Just as Avijit’s breath grew shallow and his soul was furthest from his earthly body, there was a whisper by his cold, wet face. It was the cobra who hissed by his side beckoning soul back to body to live one last green day.
Slowly, Avijit crawled to the edge of a village and collapsed by a well, where he drank from the spring waters. Avijit began to cry. A young girl, Chandra* (moon), who had been working in the fields nearby, approached Avijit quietly. She looked into his eyes and was struck by the desolation. Chandra clutched him by the arm and guided him toward a small shack. Soon he was sitting in a dark corner sipping on sweet milk and devouring paneer (cheese) and na’an. Next Chandra served him some fresh mango. When Avijit closed his eyes, he thought of his dear mother and sisters and wondered once again whether they had enough food. It was so fine to be in the company of this pretty young girl, who had shared food and shade in the hot, dusty noon of day. She had been working all morning and judging by the small hovel she called home, her family was poor. Poverty was a fact of life for many here, and yet there was a joy in this desperation. There was a fundamental respect and hospitality for the stranger regardless of circumstances. Charity was customary. Avijit graciously accepted complimentary food and board. At the break of day, Avijit bid farewell to Chandra and the lucky village. He prayed now for the villagers, their crops and children; and his prayers were answered with the blessings of abundant rains and healthy children.
Avijit continued until he reached the place they call Delhi. He felt the warm sun upon his face and was dazzled by the colors of Chandni Chowk. He entered the rainbow of Katra Neel,* this was where he stopped—surrounded by silks and satins; muslins and cottons. Now the dirt and darkness was replaced with coral, indigo, magenta, emerald, peach, gold, vermillion… Avijit blinked his eyes, the profusion of color at once so intense, blinding! There was nowhere else to go. He wandered through the crowded bazaar, full from the feast of color. This would be his home now. This was his place.
Glossary
Avijit* - Hindu boy’s name, which means invincible
Naja* - cobra’s name corresponding to the genus and species, i.e. Naja naja (scientific)
Chandra* - Hindu girl’s name, which means moon
Sapera* - caste, which includes snake charmers
Pungi*- snake charming flute instrument
Paneer* - cheese
Na’an* - bread
Lassi* - milky, sweet, cold beverage
Katra Neel* - section of the Chandni Chowk market in New Delhi where they sell fabric
Tags:
Have feedback about this site? Share it here.
Jan Umphrey posted a blog post© 2012 Created by Ken Egan.